Freewing gliders

Freewing gliders



FreeWing RC Jet 1522MM F16 PNP Airplane Model EPO Retract Landing Gear ESC 90MM EDF W/O Battery & Radio

more info:

Wingspan: 1023mm(40.3inches)

Length: 1522mm(60 inches)

Flying Weight:3550g

Thrust: 3150g

Material: EPO Foam

EDF Diameter: 12 blades 90mm

Servos:  4 pcs 9g plastic servo, 5 pcs 17g metal servo

Motor:  3748-1550KV out runner motor




There is no clear industry standard definition for RTF, PNP and KIT. Every manufacturer makes up their own definitions.

The generally accepted definitions are:

KIT means that you can get a complete foam body of the plane, prebuilt but not pre-assembled; No any electronics are loaded.

ARF/PNP means you can get the RTF minus RC system as well as battery.

RTF (Ready To Fly) means that you get a complete playable model which includes everything including electronic parts—equipped model itself and RC system, battery and so on, by which you can play after you slightly assemble it.

The PNP Model Include:

Complete model body

Landing Gear

EDF: 90mm EDF

Servos:  4 pcs 9g plastic servo, 5 pcs 17g metal servo

Motor:  3748-1550KV out runner motor


The PNP Model DoesNot Includethe Following Parts:  

Battery: 35C 6S 22.2V5000mAh Li-poly Battery




Delivery Time and Cost:

Delivery to US UK AU CA GE FR takes 8-14 business days

Delivery to other countries take0s 10-20 business days

Friends from East Europe, South America, and Middle East, please contact me for shipping details before purchasing or else there may be many troubles.

FreeWing RC Jet 1435MM T45 Goshawk PNP Airplane Model EPO 90MM EDF 1680KV W/O Battery & Radio

PNP Version

source from:

KIt Version:


Wingspan: 1138mm(44.8inches)

Length: 1435mm(56.5 inches)

Flying Weight:3770g

Material: EPO Foam

EDF Diameter: 12 blades 90mm

Servos:  7 pcs 9g plastic servo ,7 pcs 17g servo

Motor:  4068-1680KV Internal runner motor





There is no clear industry standard definition for RTF, PNP and KIT. Every manufacturer makes up their own definitions.

The generally accepted definitions are:

KIT means that you can get a complete foam body of the plane, prebuilt but not pre-assembled; No any electronics are loaded.

ARF/PNP means you can get the RTF minus RC system as well as battery.

RTF (Ready To Fly) means that you get a complete playable model which includes everything including electronic parts—equipped model itself and RC system, battery and so on, by which you can play after you slightly assemble it.


The PNP Model Includes:

Foam model body

Retract landing Gear

EDF: 90mm EDF

Servos:  7 pcs 9g plastic servo ,7 pcs 17g servo

Motor:  4068-1680KV Internal runner motor


The PNP Model Does Not Include the Following Parts:

Battery: 35C 6S 22.2V 5000mAh




Delivery Time and Cost:

Delivery to US UK AU CA GE FR takes 8-14 business days

Delivery to other countries take0s 10-20 business days

Friends from East Europe, South America, and Middle East, please contact me for shipping details before purchasing or else there may be many troubles.



Dear friends, I will be responsible for the deal until I win your great review, any negative feedback is unnecessary, please contact me if there is ANY problem about the shipping and product.  And, I wish you are a reasonable buyer so that we could nicely solve any problem.


On May 1, “The city’s Hot practice” Shijiazhuang unmanned aircraft, crossing machine Racing League Vanke station competition in Vanke Jade Park Kick-off.

Shijiazhuang unmanned aircraft crossing machine Racing League by the Shijiazhuang Municipal Sports Bureau, Shijiazhuang City Sports Association guidance, Hebei Horse Sports Technology Co., Ltd. hosted a total of 6 stations this year, Vanke station competition-led station.

In addition to the event to include Shijiazhuang high level of unmanned aircraft, but also attracted from Beijing-Tianjin-Hebei more than 160 unmanned aircraft enthusiasts to participate in the elite group and experience group of two groups, including the elite team to use the crossing machine, experience group of players using drones.

During the exciting race, several drones flew in a space that was well fenced, through obstacles, and the operator on the sidelines wearing FPV (first person main view) of the glasses remote control UAV, this novel exciting “play” is known as the “aerial f1” of the Crossing Machine racing competition It is reported that the unmanned aircraft crossing machine Racing competition is a new competition, the contestants are more young people.

Among them, the crossing machine belongs to one of the unmanned aircraft, the highest flying speed of up to 280 kilometers. In Europe and the United States, a large-scale drone race can bring billions of dollars in income. China launched the drone race in recent years, and the first national drone racing event was held in 2017.

RC gliders, also known as sailplanes, can offer the beginner a very gentle introduction to the radio control flying hobby, but can also offer the experienced rc pilot some truly exhilarating aerobatic and racing opportunities – such is the diversity of radio control gliding.

But is there a difference between both names?

Well, technically speaking a glider is any motorless aircraft capable of stable unpowered flight, even if over just a short distance. For example, man’s early attempts at flight were done in simple gliders, and flights were no more than a few hundred feet long.
A sailplane is a motorless aircraft specifically designed for sustained unpowered performance, primarily by using columns of warm air (thermals) to keep aloft. But in reality, and especially in the rc flying hobby, both names are commonly used to describe a model aircraft without a motor.


Easy RC flying.
Simpler rc gliders are excellent for introducing newcomers to the hobby. The majority of conventional beginner rc gliders are 2 or 3 channel, with control to either rudder and elevator, aileron and elevator or rudder, aileron and elevator. By conventional I mean gliders with a wing, fin and tailplane.

The alternative is the delta-wing type (or ‘flying wing’) and these are common for slope soaring. These gliders are usually just two channel with both aileron and elevator controls mixed in to control surfaces called elevons.

A two channel glider, although simple, can still be a lot of fun on the slope, particularly if it has aileron control instead of rudder. Having aileron control means that the glider can be rolled more easily, and it just makes the glider more aerobatic and fun to fly.
A foam delta-wing type glider is fairly durable, generally speaking, which makes it very beginner-friendly.


The more advanced rc gliders and larger sailplanes can have more channels still, with additional controls for flaps or spoilers, air brakes and even tow line release hooks in the nose and retractable nose wheel.

Simpler two channel conventional rc gliders like the timeless Goldberg Gentle Lady for example, shown below, are not at all complicated to fly and their design makes them inherently very stable, making such gliders perfect for the novice.

Flying rc gliders of this type can be a very peaceful and relaxing experience. Typically flying speeds of such gliders are much slower than the speeds of powered airplanes and their stability gives the pilot plenty of time to react. Gliders like the Gentle Lady are very forgiving in the air and won’t punish you for making mistakes with your Tx sticks!

Intermediate/expert RC gliders.
Of course, different types of rc glider and sailplane have different flight characteristics and at the other end of the scale the sleek racing gliders can be thrown around the slopes at crazy speeds and in stronger winds.

These models are typically moulded from glass fibre and/or carbon fibre, and are commonly referred to as mouldies. They can be ballasted up (made heavier) by inserting metal weights into a special ballast tube inside the fuselage and/or wing, and this extra mass gives the glider more inertia and better penetration into the wind (i.e. makes them fly faster).

Such rc gliders can be very expensive and the faster speeds demand good reactions and co-ordination – this is not the sort of model you want to break due to inexperience!

And while on the subject of speed, did you know that the fastest radio control aircraft in the world is a glider?! Not a jet but an rc glider! Yep, the current world record has just exceeded 500 m.p.h in the sector of dynamic soaring.
So you can see that radio control gliders offer more than you might expect!

A big advantage that rc gliders and sailplanes have over powered radio control aircraft is that of flight duration; if the conditions are favourable with good lift during a rc slope soaring or thermal flying session then you can keep your glider aloft for a very long time. No need to land for refueling or replacing a motor battery pack, although you do of course need to keep an eye on the TX and RX battery levels to keep the radio signal strong.

RTF vs. ARF RC gliders.
Unfortunately there are few Ready To Fly rc gliders available compared to powered rc planes, and this is a shame for beginners who just want to get flying without any assembly fuss.
It seems that the only RTF gliders around are of the powered variety. Presumably this is a reflection on market demand, and in my opinion it’s a shame that at least some manufacturers aren’t offering a good selection of 2 or 3 channel RTF gliders for sale.

An Almost Ready To Fly (ARF) glider is the next best option but obviously you’re going to have to buy, install and set up the radio gear yourself. A certain degree of aeromodelling knowledge is required to complete and set up an ARF rc aircraft, but if you’re completely new to the hobby there is plenty of help around.
The range of scale gliders from Seagull is a good one, and the quality of Seagull aircraft is very good. Having had a couple of their aircraft, I can vouch for their quality.


Categories of RC gliders and sailplanes.
There are several different categories of radio control glider, as well as a large diversity of model designs ranging from general sport gliders to expensive carbon racing ones to large scale vintage sailplanes. Below are some examples of and brief introductions to the more popular types…

General sport gliders.
These come in a large variety of shapes and sizes and are suited to flat field flying with assisted launch, or the very popular sector of slope soaring.

Typically three channel (rudder, aileron & elevator), sport gliders can handle a variety of conditions and are, usually, aerobatically capable. Sport rc gliders can be non-scale or scale, although many scale gliders of this type are labelled as ‘aerobatic’ rather than ‘sport’.


Construction, as with any rc aircraft, can be traditional balsa and ply or foam such as the popular Multiplex Cularis, shown below, or GRP (glass reinforced plastic aka fibreglass). This latter material is very common in rc glider construction.


Hand launched gliders

Gliders that are specifically designed to be thrown upwards from a strong hand launch are generally smaller, to make them more manageable. You might see them referred to as chuckies.

A simple two channel example is the Great Planes Fling, shown right, although owner feedback about this particular glider hasn’t been great. Gliders like this one can also be launched with a simple ‘high-start’ launching system (catapult / bungee) so if your throws aren’t quite strong enough then you can still get airborne. But with the right throwing technique and strength a hand launched glider can easily reach an adequate altitude without any external aids.
Once launched, either by a throw or catapult system, flight duration is achieved by using thermals and wind to keep the glider aloft.

Discus Launch Gliders (DLGs).
Following on from the standard hand launch gliders mentioned above, a Discus Launch Glider is a newer breed of rc glider that’s become very popular with flat-field flyers.

A DLG has a specially designed wingtip handle (a strong pin running vertically through the wing) that is held between index and middle finger. The pilot spins in a 360 degree circle and launches the glider upwards on exiting the spin, just like a field athlete launches a discus (hence the name DLG…).

You don’t need to be strong because the force needed to power the glider upwards is generated during your spin, and then the design of the glider aids the steep climb.
With the right technique a Discus Launch Glider can reach a surprising height. Once the glider has leveled out after its vertical climb, your thermal-seeking can commence.

The big advantage with a DLG, and indeed a normal hand launch glider, is that you don’t need to be on a hilltop or in an area large enough to take a long bungee/Hi-Start system. A DLG can be launched from a relatively small space, as it goes vertically upwards.

Thermal soarers.
RC sailplanes that are intended for thermal soaring tend to have larger wingspans, up to 4 meters for the serious competition models. Their construction is kept as lightweight as possible and they have a low wing loading, this combination keeps their glide rate (vertical descent) to an absolute minimum.

There’s a definite skill to thermal soaring; if the pilot can’t successfully locate the thermals then the glider won’t stay airborne for any great length of time. That said, a thermal soarer will out fly a sport glider (time aloft) under the same conditions, simply because of its better glide rate.
A fairly typical ‘pod and boom’ type rc thermal soarer is shown below:

Combat RC gliders.
Combat gliders are generally much smaller than traditional soarers and are typically made from EPP (Expanded Polypropylene) foam, a material that’s incredibly tough and resilient to damage, making the gliders very durable. The tail feathers can be sheet balsa or, more commonly, fluted polypropylene sheet (eg ‘Corflute’), a very bendy and crash-resistant material.

EPP combat gliders are commonly covered in reinforced tape to add strength, and then coloured tape to finish. All this tape also adds to the durability. Other ways of finishing them include paint and low-heat iron on covering film.

The idea with combat gliding is to fly as a group and try to knock your opponent’s glider out of the air. Because the EPP rarely gets damaged, it’s quite safe to fly straight into another glider at full speed!

Combat gliders are a great deal of fun, but even if you can’t get a group together flying one on your own is equally exhilarating. Because of their general design they can be very maneuverable indeed and in the right conditions can be flown fast and aerobatically. Highly recommended for some low-worry slope soaring fun!

Scale RC sailplanes.
A scale model aircraft is one that is modelled from a full size aircraft, and there are plenty of full size gliders and sailplanes that make excellent subjects to model.

A big attraction of such a model is the build itself, as well as the flying. I’m currently building a 1/5 scale Letov LF-107 Lunak, which you can read about right here.

Below is a photo of a fellow clubmate’s beautiful large-scale sailplanes, these are about 5 meter wingspan. Obviously not all scale gliders need to be this big!


Well those are just several of the basic categories of rc gliders and sailplanes; as has already been mentioned radio control gliders have many many types, shapes and sizes from traditional built-up kits meant for relaxed soaring to modern carbon fiber racing machines capable of incredible speeds and performance.

Whichever type of rc glider you choose, you’ll be entering a hugely popular sector of the radio control flying hobby. The ease of control and gentle flying characteristics of many gliders make them a great attraction and introduction to the hobby, and I can highly recommend giving rc gliding a try especially if you live near an open slope that faces the prevailing wind!

So, then, radio control gliding is a hugely popular sector of the rc flying hobby with its dedicated followers, be they slope soarers or flat field flyers. Perfect for the beginner and advanced rc pilot alike, rc gliders and sailplanes will give you a truly rewarding experience.

From a personal point of view, rc gliders are my favourite form of radio control flight. They require very few accessories and there are no noise issues to worry about. In fact, the only real concern is whether or not your radio gear batteries will last as long as you want to fly for!
The challenge of having to seek out lift and use the air to keep your glider aloft, rather than just rely on motor power and thrust, is an addictive and exhilarating one.

If you’re looking to fly faster model aircraft, rc jets can give you the ultimate thrill and adrenaline rush!


Electric powered ducted fan (EDF) jets have become commonplace on our flying fields in recent years, and they offer an excellent gateway to the more serious gas turbine powered model jets.
But these turbine jets, however, are not for the beginner. They are very serious model aircraft that you have to work up to after gaining a large amount of radio control flying experience, and an equally large amount of cash. They are very serious business.

The good news is that the EDF jets are more affordable and many are stunningly realistic, making them an excellent choice for those who aren’t in a position to fly a turbine model.

The best introduction to flying true rc jets (i.e. with no propeller) are the aforementioned jets which use an electric ducted fan unit as pictured above.

A ducted fan is a small but powerful unit that houses a multi-bladed propeller, or fan, spinning at very high RPM (revs/minute). As it spins, air is sucked into a duct through one or more intakes in the fuselage of the jet, and then forced out the back of the jet at very high speed, pushing the jet through the air. A lot of thrust can be generated by an EDF although this is obviously going to vary from unit to unit.

EDF units are generally powered by high Kv brushless motors (high RPM) and need a high capacity/high discharge rate lithium polymer battery pack (Li-Po) because of the high current that they draw.

As previously mentioned, Ready To Fly foam EDF jets have really taken hold in recent times and the number of good quality RTF EDFs available has increased dramatically, to the point where it’s as common to see such a jet on the flying field as it is a plane or helicopter – that wasn’t the case a few years ago when rc jets were very specialised models.

Some manufacturers have gone all-out to produce striking models with fantastic scale detail,


Foamie EDF jets like this aren’t cheap and you do need to be an intermediate pilot to fly one safely – in other words they’re absolutely not for the beginner rc pilot. But definitely something to work towards!

It’s a good testament to the hobby that electric ducted fan rc jets like these have now become so widely available and relatively affordable, in exactly the same way that electric rc helicopters have.

But with that said, it’s important to know that starting out in the radio control flying hobby from scratch with an EDF jet isn’t wise. Gaining flight experience with a conventional trainer airplane is the thing to do; the faster flying speeds of jets can catch out the beginner rc pilot who hasn’t yet developed the reactions and co-ordination needed to fly any rc aircraft type.

Micro RC jets
Like all other model types in the radio control flying hobby, rc jets have shrunk in size in recent times.

Leading the way is the Horizon Hobby brand E-flite with their UMX range. The latest jets feature Horizon’s AS3X™ stabilisation technology which helps fight wind gusts and the natural twitchiness of small model aircraft.

These micro-sized rc jets are excellent fun around the park, and are quite cheap to buy. You don’t really need the same level of flying experience as for a larger jet, but their relatively fast speed does mean you need to have built up the necessary reactions and co-ordination before attempting to fly one.

Gas turbine RC jets – the real deal.
To many fliers an rc jet powered by a true model jet engine represents the pinnacle of radio control flying but, as mentioned earlier, such an rc jet like the F14 Tomcat in the following video is definitely best left alone until you have:

1] lots of confidence…
2] endless hours of rc flying experience and…
3] lots of money!!

Even a smaller size model gas turbine unit can cost a four-figure sum, and that’s before you’ve purchased the jet, radio gear and all the essential accessories. So a twin engine model, like the Tomcat in the video, is going to cost you a lot!

But rc gas turbine jets are the ultimate in radio control flying. Large scale jets look and sound amazingly realistic in the air and a properly built and well flown scale model is very impressive to watch in action.

If you ever get a chance to see some of these on display, then do.
RC events that feature such aircraft are becoming more and more common, and it’s worth trying to locate one if you can. Top UK radio control pilot Ali Machinchy, now living in the USA and working for Horizon Hobby (a big loss to the UK rc scene!), always puts on an amazing display and flies large scale jets – indeed, he’s one of the world’s top show pilots.
If you ever get a chance to watch him, please do! If you don’t, then at least enjoy this video of him flying a large scale (1/5) English Electric Lightning at one of the UK’s top shows…

Here’s the video (reproduced, copyright unknown)…

Model RC jets on a simulator.
If you’re more like me than Ali, then there is a cheaper option for trying your hand at flying proper gas turbine powered rc jets…

Phoenix sim – Red Arrow HawkA good quality rc flight simulator can give you a realistic jet-flying experience, without breaking the bank. I have the Phoenix flight sim which features several turbine jets. A screenshot of the BAE Hawk is shown to the right.
You can learn more about rc flight simulators here.

One advantage rc jets have – whether virtual or real – is that they are not so adversely affected by wind like many rc airplanes are, due to the higher airspeeds and sleeker aerodynamics. This is a big plus when you’re flying, although obviously every model has its own limitations and flight characteristics.

A downside is that because of this speed they need extra airspace; a faster flying model requires much more space for turns and aerobatic maneuvers than a slower flying aircraft, and you need to remember this when flying jets of any size. This consequently brings in the problem of your jet being flown at a distance where it’s not always easy to see exactly what it’s doing; that in turn brings the serious risk of disorientation – a proven killer of rc aircraft of all types!

But flying any type of rc jet is always an adrenalin-filled experience and with radio control and electronic technology forever improving and reducing in cost, more and more rc jets will become available still, even for the lesser-experienced amongst us.


If you like jets, you’re going to like this article! The F-8 Crusader and the F-105 Thunderchief are both aircraft that we’ve made vlogs on recently, but we really like to test the aircraft that we review in detail. This way, we can give you a realistic impression of what the planes are like to live with over a long period of time. With that in mind, we took them to one of our favourite flying fields and blasted them into the sky.


Style and Detail

Both of these jets are superbly detailed. Based on Cold-War fighter-bombers in an era when jets were becoming established in the USAF (the United States Air Force), each capture those sleek aluminium lines.



The F-8 has quite a unique intake duct. Like it or not, it’s modelled to perfection.



The colour schemes on both jets are also fantastic.



Our daring test pilots Bob and Josh agree on the quality of the remarkable levels of detail put into these small jets.



Both the F-8 and F-105 feature elevons in the wings, much like would be the case for a delta wing. It’s quite a unique feature which adds to the nimble manoeuvrability of these jets. It’s worth noting that having elevons like this means that you need to use a transmitter capable of elevon mixing.



The jets feature similar levels of detail to Motion RC’s FlightLine F7F Tigercat (63″/1600mm wingspan) that we reviewed a while back. It’s quite incredible what is available these days. Great flying and great looking models are getting more and more prevalent (which is good news!).




The F7F featured amazing detail in the canopy, radial engines and panel lines.



It had no less than six servos in the wings, not to mention the retracts. Alex’s favourite feature was the attention to detail inside the wheel wells which were painted with olive drab paint, just like the real thing!



Flying Characteristics

Back to the jets, the first thing to mention about the performance is this: these things have some serious speed.



Their menacing, pointy lines are the first indication that they’re going to rip through the air like the real things.



It takes a lot of concentration to fly fast aircraft like these. Having said that, the technology inside these little jets mean that they remain surprisingly stable at any speed with ‘axial rolls and predictable behaviour’ as Motion RC state on their website.



But how fast is it? Officially, the F-105D Thunderchief can hit a top speed of 72mph using a 3s 1000mAh-2200mAh lipo. This makes chasing it with the FT 270 Quad a little challenging, especially when the F-105 punches the throttle.


For the F-8, Motion RC says that it can reach 68mph with a 3s 1000mAh-2200mAh lipo.



Hand launches are easy as the small form factor makes them lightweight and easily ‘grabbable’ under the plastic skid tray.



Launch! Alex’s hair trembles with excitement.



Spec Comparison

Can’t decide which one’s for you? We can help with that. Here is a brief comparison chart to help you choose your favourite jet. What’s great is that they’re both great options for intermediate fliers as an introduction to the world of EDF’s. Whichever you pick, it’s sure to live up to your expectations.



F-8 Crusaider F-105 Thunderchief
Top Speed (with recomended battery) 68mph
Recommended Battery 1000mAh-2200mAh lipo
1000mAh-2200mAh lipo
Material EPO Foam
EPO Foam
EDF 64mm 5-Blade EDF
64mm 5-Blade EDF
Motor 2627-4500kV
Wingspan 530mm / 20.8in
Length 800mm / 31.5in


So as you can see, they’re fairly similar in spec and perform very similarly too. So, perhaps choose which one you prefer the look of.


More Video and Our First Impressions

As mentioned earlier in the article, we previously did a couple of vlogs featuring each of these planes. If you’ve missed them and would like to see what our first impressions were with these planes out of the box, here is each of them for your enjoyment.

F-8 Crusaider





F-105 Thunderchief




Check out both of the $100 jets in this article, along with other awesome products, on Motion RC’s website.

Freewing F-105 Thunderchief 64mm EDF Jet – PNP
Freewing F-8 Crusader 64mm EDF Jet – PNP

Written by Tina
Take your foam jet experience to the next level
Product review
Photos by Tina,China Freewing manufacruewe



• Model type: EDF jet
• Skill level: Intermediate to advanced
• Wingspan: 44.8 inches
• Wing area: 512 square inches
• Length: 56 inches
• Weight: 129 ounces
• Power system: 90mm electric ducted fan
• Radio: Minimum seven-channel radio/receiver
• Construction: EPO foam
• Street price: $499


Test-model details
• Motor used: Freewing 3748-1550 Kv brushless outrunner (installed)
• Speed controller: Freewing 130-amp brushless with separate 8-amp BEC (installed)
• Battery: Admiral 6S 22.2-volt 5,000 mAh 50C LiPo with EC5 connector
• EDF: Freewing 90mm with 12-blade impeller (installed)
• Radio system: Spektrum Black Edition DX9 DSMX 2.4 GHz transmitter; Spektrum AR8000 DSMX receiver
• Ready-to-fly weight: 129 ounces
• Flight duration: 3 to 4 minutes


• Extremely high level of scale detail.
• High blade count impeller produces excellent thrust, with accompanying realistic-sounding and ear-pleasing acoustics.
• CNC aluminum suspension-equipped struts and sequenced, multipanel gear doors.
• Operational speed brakes and LE slats.
• Multipin wing connectors and wiring interface module help to tame the abundance of wiring.


• Relatively short flight duration.


Product review
Pilots who love flying foam-composition scale jets have, in the past, been forced to make a few obligatory concessions. Until recently, most mass-produced jet models typically featured a meager level of scale detail. Additionally, the electric ducted-fan (EDF) power systems included with many of the kits of yore were underpowered, out of balance, and obnoxiously noisy.

Pilots who preferred any higher level of scale detail and/or a more powerful, better-sounding EDF power system were forced to spend countless hours engineering and improving their jet models. Although that process might be the best part of the hobby to a select few, most prospective EDF jet fliers probably prefer that a model come out of the box already equipped with an impressive level of scale detail and a smooth, appropriately powerful EDF power system preinstalled. Motion RC recently released a series of Freewing Super Scale 90mm EDF jets that are sure to please EDF-loving pilots interested in a scale jet model.

The first kit to be released in the series was the popular T-45 Goshawk. The McDonnell Douglas T-45 Goshawk made its first flight in 1988. This carrier-capable aircraft has since been used extensively by the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps as a jet flight trainer.

There have been more than a few T-45 kits available to modelers throughout the last few years, most of them done up in the trademark U.S. Navy International orange and white color scheme. Model pilots prone to protest the arrival of “yet another orange and white USN Goshawk” were stopped midsentence by the impressive list of features included with this 90mm EPO foam-composition EDF jet.



Freewing’s 90mm EDF-powered version of the U.S. Navy-themed T-45 Goshawk is stunningly detailed.


The T-45 is available in Plug and Play (PNP) and ARF Plus variants. The former includes all electronic components, while the latter omits the EDF unit and speed controller. The ARF Plus kit is perfect for pilots who prefer to source their own power system. The availability of this option does not infer that the 90mm EDF that Freewing installs in the PNP version is in any way a lackluster performer. To the contrary, this high-performance 90mm EDF uses a 12-blade impeller and endows the T-45 with plenty of thrust!

The long list of scale-enhancing features included with this exquisitely detailed jet is guaranteed to fog the face masks of even the most jaded jet pilots. This model uses worm-gear-driven leading edge (LE) slats. To my knowledge, it is the first time that this unique and fully functional feature has ever been included on a mass-produced model!

Sequenced, multipanel gear doors and trailing link suspension-equipped electric landing gear nicely replicate the geometry and functionality of the full-scale Goshawk’s tricycle landing gear. Rows of plastic vortex generators are positioned slightly aft of the wing’s LEs. Other cool plastic details include a tailhook, functional speed brakes, a pitot tube, and antennae.

A removable cockpit and hatch includes a pair of pilot figures and a nicely detailed cockpit interior. The clear plastic canopy even mimics the explosive cord used to predetonate the full-scale T-45’s canopy milliseconds before the pilots’ ejection seats will fire.

A full array of strobing and fixed navigation lights comes preinstalled, as does a small wiring interface module that helps to manage the abundance of wiring used on this full-featured model.

Finally, Freewing did not simply add a few details to the wings and white stabilizers and call it a U.S. Navy scheme. The impressive number and variety of factory-applied maintenance graphics and U.S. Navy markings adorning every inch of this big Goshawk jet help it live up to its Super Scale moniker!


The PNP version of the T-45 comes out of the box in such an advanced state of completion that there is no need to spend hours at one’s workbench assembling and prepping this detailed jet for its first flights. Pilots pulling the parts out of the box for the first time can instead use the time to savor the incredible variety of included scale details!



The only items that pilots will need to source to get this quick-assembling PNP kit in the air are a seven- to nine-channel receiver and a 6S 50C 5,000 mAh LiPo battery.


An abundance of plastic bits are used to enhance the scale outline of the Goshawk. Notable pieces include a striped tailhook and detailed cockpit with twin pilot figures. The cockpit instrumentation even includes a simulated lighted heads-up display!

Freewing supplements the air supplied to the preinstalled 90mm EDF power system through the scale twin inlet ducts with a large auxiliary air inlet opening, located on the bottom of the fuselage just forward of the fan assembly. A large, rectangular, plastic, louvered inlet panel helps to prohibit the entry of potentially damaging foreign objects and debris.

Best practices when assembling a PNP configuration kit include taking a little time to inspect the integrity of all of the control surface hinges and pushrod connections. Freewing’s use of ball-link-style connectors on the control surface side of the pushrods comes with the advantage of minimal backlash. This can help a model respond more crisply to control inputs and track more precisely in the air and on the ground.

Actual assembly of the airframe involves mounting the horizontal and vertical stabilizer assemblies and two-piece wing. Removable fasteners allow pilots to easily break the model down for transport or replace damaged components when necessary. A little adhesive is required to mount the two different tail cone pieces and to attach the nose cone-mounted pitot tube.

The entire nose cone assembly itself is conveniently engineered to be easily removable and is held in place using magnets. This helps prevent damage to the somewhat delicate component by popping it off for transport and storage. The two wing halves utilize multipin connectors. These conveniently aggregate all of the electronics used in each wing half onto one larger connector. This simplifies wing attachment and removal, and reduces the chances of making wrong connections when assembling the model at the field.

Pilots who want to have independent control of all of the T-45’s features will need to source a minimum eight-channel receiver. A seven-channel receiver can alternately be pressed into service, although this option will require that the slats and flaps are connected to, and driven by, the same channel.

As a longtime Spektrum radio system user, the form factor and number of channels offered by the Spektrum AR8000 DSMX eight-channel receiver made it the obvious choice for this high-performance jet. This full-range receiver’s use of a satellite receiver, which brings the added benefit of multipath redundancy, gives pilots an extra level of confidence. The length of the satellite receiver’s pigtail allowed it to be located forward of the main receiver, near the nose gear retract mechanism.

The black and white assembly manual offers in-depth assembly and component replacement instructions. It includes a complete listing of the 14 servos preinstalled in the airframe, as well as their rotation and the lengths of their leads.

A detailed printout and mapping of the included E04 wiring module assists pilots with the connection of all of the various lights and servo leads. The manual also recommends high- and low-rate throws, the proper center of gravity (CG) location, and that pilots configure the elevator’s neutral position to be slightly biased toward the down position.



This full-featured T-45 includes an abundance of radio connections and wiring; Freewing’s use of the E04 Integrated Circuit Module helps keep it all as neat as possible.


Although the recommended six-cell 22.2-volt 5,000 mAh LiPo battery fits snugly into the battery bay, enough room exists to move it forward and aft for the optimum CG. Those who prefer to source their own high-performance 8S or even 10S EDF power system will want to opt for the ARF Plus version of this kit. The sole difference is that this kit omits the stock Freewing 90mm power system. All other electronics come included and preinstalled exactly as they do in the PNP version.


The importance of performing a thorough preflight routine is imperative. This helps to minimize any in-flight surprises—something most pilots prefer to avoid when flying a larger, high-performance EDF jet model such as the T-45.
Positioning the big Admiral six-cell 5,000 mAh LiPo battery so that its forward edge is even with the Goshawk’s twin intakes balances the airframe within a few millimeters of the recommended CG. The assembly manual recommended a takeoff configuration of half flaps to allow the T-45 to rotate sooner than when takeoffs are performed without the flaps deployed. Whatever takeoff flap configuration a pilot elects to use, the airframe needs time to accelerate to a proper rotation speed.

Although the thrust produced by the Freewing 90mm EDF motivates this 8-pound jet hastily forward, the sound produced by the 12-blade impeller at full throttle is a guaranteed grin generator!

The aluminum trailing link tricycle landing gear nicely absorbs aberrations in the runway surface and helps to keep this jet tracking nicely in the takeoff roll. Only minimal rudder corrections are typically required.

Scale EDF jets fly best when operated in a scalelike manner. The higher wing loading of this airframe precludes pilots yanking and banking it around in the same manner that they would a lightly loaded sport jet. The throttle should generally be kept above 50% at all times and turns should be kept on the gradual side; however, these statements are not intended to infer that this model is difficult to fly.

Keep the speed up and the transmitter inputs controlled and deliberate and the Freewing T-45 will happily cruise around the sky without any bad behavior. High-rate control authority gives a pilot the ability to loop and roll this T-45 with only modest amounts of stick movement required.

The extreme level of out-of-the-box scale detailing, combined with the incredibly smooth, turbine-like sound of the Freewing 90mm EDF power system, give this jet an in-flight appearance and presence that surpasses any EDF model I have experienced!



Freewing’s 12-blade 90mm EDF power system make this jet sound as good as it looks.


The impressive performance offered by this 90mm EDF jet comes with one caveat: typical flight durations using the stock Freewing six-cell 90mm EDF power system will be in the range of three to four minutes.

Although many pilots use a countdown timer to alert them to the need to land, this model is the perfect candidate for the use of a radio telemetry system. Receiving real-time feedback about the voltage of the flight battery enables a pilot to maximize the flight durations of this high-performance model and minimize any chance of accidentally flying this jet into a low-voltage cutoff condition.

Most pilots will agree that the landing is what separates the men from the boys. Freewing’s use of LE and speed brakes on the Goshawk give pilots additional resources that can help bring this big jet safely home every time.

The best landing approaches will occur if pilots give this model a little time to adjust to each applied change in configuration. Quickly and simultaneously dumping flaps, gear, slats and speed brakes can potentially upset the airframe and get a pilot into trouble.

Performing a controlled and traditional rectangular landing approach, with nice extended legs and gradual, arcing transitions through the corners, is a recipe for the perfect, scalelike landing. Well-planned deployment of each individual piece of the airframe should be a pilot’s goal when shooting an approach.

An upwind pass directly over the runway centerline is a great way to visually verify that a pilot has all three landing gear down. The first notch of flaps can be deployed with the jet turning crosswind to downwind. Using a transmitter’s flap speed setting to substantially slow the movement of the flaps allows the jet to settle into the new configuration with minimal pitch changes. Full flaps and slats can be deployed on either the crosswind leg or the base leg.

As the airframe gets “dirty,” pilots will need to actively modulate the throttle to maintain airspeed. Fly the T-45 all the way into the numbers and it can execute the prettiest, nose-high landing approach imaginable!



The suspension-equipped aluminum trailing link landing gear helps the Goshawk “stick” to the runway when landing.


Pilot preference will dictate whether the speed brakes are deployed on final approach or during the landing rollout. The sight of this superbly scalelike model on final, with its nose gear mounted and super bright landing light ablaze, will send a shiver of excitement down the spine of pilots and onlookers alike.


With the availability of this amazingly detailed EPO foam-composition jet, pilots can now buy a turnkey, scale, high-performance military jet at a price point that most hardcore EDF enthusiasts will find perfectly palatable. The included six-cell Freewing 90mm EDF power system amply powers the T-45 to roughly 80 to 85 mph and produces smooth, somewhat turbinelike acoustics that are sure to be a sweet-sounding symphony to the ears of EDF enthusiasts.

Pilots who like to go fast know that speed costs money. Or, in the case of this model, speed comes at the expense of amp draw.

With shorter-than-normal flight durations, which is the sole caveat of this exquisitely detailed PNP kit, pilots who crave a large, highly detailed, and superbly performing scale military jet will assuredly love the way this model looks, sounds, and performs in the air!

buying your RC airplane.
As a newcomer to the radio control flying hobby, choosing and buying your rc airplane correctly is going to have a big impact on your initial enjoyment of radio control flying.
Why? Simply because if you buy an airplane that’s not suitable for a beginner, or is of poor quality, you’ll have a nasty first experience with it and you’ll very likely be put off rc flying for life – so please don’t let that happen!

What to look for when buying your RC airplane
Design configuration.

For your first radio control airplane you need something that is stable and forgiving. This is so important, and many beginners are too tempted to buy an rc plane that looks cool or can fly fast, without giving much thought to how easy the thing is to control. Big mistake!

The perfect airplane to learn to fly on is a high wing trainer. By ‘high wing’ we mean that the wing sits on top of the fuselage, and this configuration means lots of stability in the air – exactly what you need when learning to fly radio control.

HobbyZone’s Sport Cub S beginner rc airplane
Above: HobbyZone’s Sport Cub S is the classic
trainer configuration.

High wing airplanes are stable and forgiving because the weight of the fuselage below the wing always acts to stabilise the airplane in flight. A high wing plane will always want to right itself naturally after a turn and this action really helps you out when learning to fly.

The other thing you need to look for when buying your first rc airplane is noticeable dihedral. This is the upward ‘V’ angle of the wings when viewed from the front. The more dihedral the wings have, the more stable the airplane is going to be (up to a point).
Again, this is because of the ‘pendulum’ effect of the fuselage hanging below the wing; the lower the centre of gravity is in relation to the wing surfaces, the more stability there is.

Dihedral angle of a wing
Above: look for the obvious upward dihedral angle of the wings,
when viewed from the front.

Another reason for dihedral (in fact, the principal technical reason) is that airplanes that do not have ailerons, i.e. they rely solely on rudder for turning, need dihedral to aid the turn. As rudder is applied, the plane yaws to that direction and the dihedral then forces the plane in to a banked turn.
RC airplanes that do have ailerons will have noticeably less dihedral than those without, as a general rule.

So then, for your first rc airplane you should be looking for a high wing configuration with good dihedral – the classic ‘trainer’ design.

Power type.
You might have already decided whether you want to fly a plane with an engine (IC: Internal Combustion power, commonly glow plug) or one with an electric motor (EP: Electric Power), but if you haven’t then here are some pros and cons to consider…

EP rc airplanes are a lot more beginner friendly; they are cheaper to buy and to fly, they require less accessories, they have less of a nuisance factor because they are quieter, and they are more welcome in public places (where rc flying is permitted, of course).

Conversely, a glow plug powered plane (or any IC one) requires more accessories because of starting and maintaining the engine, you’ll have ongoing fuel costs, they generate much higher noise levels and are, generally speaking, larger and more expensive than EP beginner planes.
Club membership and access to a proper flying site or private land is more of a requirement with an IC powered rc plane, since they are not as welcome in public places because of the noise.

So if you’re on the fence and can’t decide which power type to go for, go with electric – you’ll have an easier, cheaper and cleaner introduction to the hobby of radio control flying. There’s no question about that.
If you love the smell of burned fuel and the noise of an engine, go with IC. More thoughts on IC vs. EP.

How many channels (controllable functions)?
This is an important question and, again, choosing badly could determine how much fun you have with your new rc airplane.

For the simpler ‘Park Flyer’ type electric rc airplanes (the ones we’re focusing on in this flight school) 3 channel planes are most common for self-teaching.

Single and two channel rc airplanes are available but they are more toys than anything else, and not worth spending any money on if you’re serious about the hobby. A two channel rc airplane is easy to fly but very limited in what it can do.

So, for a true taste of radio control flying, a three channel plane is what you really need. A 3 channel plane will have control to motor, elevator and rudder although an optional 3 channel configuration is motor, elevator and ailerons. A rudder is more commonplace on beginner rc airplanes though – ailerons tend to be on faster planes capable of more aerobatics, where they need the capability to roll smoothly – which aileron control gives.

Of course, there’s nothing stopping you diving right in with a 4 channel trainer such as the E-flite Apprentice 15e, for example. Such an rc airplane isn’t quite as straightforward to self-teach with but ultimately they are more rewarding to fly.

A four channel rc plane will have control to motor power, ailerons, rudder and elevator – that extra channel (ailerons) does steepen the learning curve somewhat because of the extra co-ordination needed, that’s why self-teaching on such a plane isn’t as easy as on a three channel one.

2, 3 and 4 channel rc airplanes
Above: the Firebird Commander 2, Super Cub LP and Apprentice 15e
electric RTF rc airplanes – 2, 3 & 4 channels respectively and all meant for beginners.

For the purpose of this RC Airplane World Flight School though, we’ll stick with a 3 channel airplane with motor, elevator and rudder control, something like HobbyZone’s Sport Cub S.

Kit, ARF or RTF?
The ‘completeness’ of your first rc airplane is purely down to your own personal preference.

Buying your rc airplane – kitA kit involves building the plane from a box of pieces over a plan. Very satisfying, but you need a fair knowledge of model building skills to do it well and you’ll need to buy the motor, ESC, battery pack and radio gear separately.

Unless you really want a traditionally constructed balsa/ply trainer as your first plane, it’s not advisable. Learn to fly first before risking the horrors of crashing a plane that’s taken you much time and effort to build!

If you buy an ARF (Almost Ready to Fly) rc airplane it will be about 90% finished. You just need to buy the motor, ESC, battery pack and radio gear separately and install it all yourself. Again, some modelling knowledge is required but there won’t be much building to worry about.

ARFs make an excellent introduction to model airplane construction, if you do want to get involved in that side of the hobby as well as the flying (learn more about ARFs).

Buying your rc airplane – RTFBuying an RTF (Ready To Fly) plane is your best option if you just want to get flying in the least amount of time. RTF rc airplanes come fully finished with all electronics (motor & radio) installed. There’s nothing for you to do apart from some very basic assembly work (eg attaching wing to fuselage), charge the battery pack, install the transmitter batteries and fly.

Electric powered (EP) beginner RTF planes have attracted a huge number of newcomers to the hobby in recent years; they’re affordable, convenient and offer the quickest route to getting airborne. Primarily of foam construction they are tough too, but easily repairable should the worst happen (learn more about RTFs). Talking of which….

Spare parts availability.
REALITY CHECK : it’s a fact of the radio control flying hobby that crashing is all part of the action!
When you’re learning how to fly rc airplanes the chances are good that you will crash sooner or later – and if you’re a complete newbie, then it’ll probably be sooner!

Having an off-the-shelf supply of spare parts is very convenient, and when you’re looking around at buying your first rc airplane do take the time to check whether spare parts are available. Certainly brands such as HobbyZone and ParkZone, for example, carry all the parts you could wish for.
Generally speaking, spare parts for foam RTFs are quite cheap – much cheaper than parts for a balsa/ply plane.

If you buy an rc airplane that doesn’t have a good back-up of parts behind it you’re in for some potentially dodgy repairs that could seriously impede the safety and performance of your plane, post-crash.

Where to buy your RC airplane.
If you’ve got a local hobby store, the best thing you can do is pop along and have a chat. My website will give you all the info you need to understand what you should be buying, but talking face to face with an rc enthusiast is better. And helping support your LHS is the right thing to do – many many rc shops have gone out of business in recent times due to low profit margins and tough competition.

But beware! There are some unscrupulous shop owners out there who are interested in nothing more than getting hold of your hard-earned cash – they might not have your best interests at heart when it comes to you actually learning to fly. Selling a newbie something expensive and completely unsuitable sadly happens from time to time.

If you do buy from a shop, be happy that they’re selling you something appropriate and not just the most expensive aircraft in their shop that you’ll smash on its maiden flight, and so you’ll be back to buy another…

Buying online is your other option and that’s perfectly acceptable. Stay close to the advice and info in this page and the website in general and you won’t go far wrong. But again, be careful – we all know the internet is a minefield.

Amazon is actually a safe place to buy rc stuff these days; all the big manufacturers sell there directly now, as well as smaller independent ones.

And then of course there’s good ol’ eBay, but don’t be tempted to buy something cheap and nasty from China or Hong Kong from a brand you’ve never heard of, just because the price is too good to be true (if it is, then it probably is!). If in doubt research the airplane you’re thinking of buying – ask around, check forums, check out videos of it on YouTube – in short, just be aware of exactly what you’re buying, and from who.

Well the above pointers should give you an idea of what to look for in your first plane. If you want more detailed information on the above, and getting in to rc flying in general, check out my popular ebook The Beginner’s Guide To Flying RC Airplanes.

how to START to BUILD YOUR FIRST RC airplane

Building RC planes is tons of fun, but figuring out where to start is tough. The goal of this Instructible is to get you started in the hobby and turn you into a successful hobbyist. When selecting electronics for your new scratch-built rc plane there are many factors to consider. You need to consider the size of the plane, speed you wish to achieve, necessary thrust, and desired flight time. For parts I recommend looking on Hobbyking as they sell high quality parts at much lower prices than their competitors. Customer service is poor, and shipping takes a long time but with proper research it is a great resource. I have sourced all my parts from them and in 1000+ dollars worth of parts I am yet to be disappointed. In the first step I will go over selecting electronics, in the second I will go over connecting your electronics, and in the third I will discuss putting the electronics in your plane, and in step four I will go over some designs for homemade rc planes that I like.

Step 1: Selecting a Brushless Motor

Your entire plane is built around your motor and this is what you must choose first. When considering rc brushless motors there are several pieces of information you must take into account. The first is your brushless motor kv. The kv of your motor is the number of revolutions per minute it will spin per volt. The lower the kv, the stronger the motor and as a result, you will want a larger propeller for maximum thrust. Often slower motors will also result in slower flying planes, a big plus for your first hobby grade rc plane. If you select a motor with a higher kv and a smaller propeller the speed of the thrust will be higher, and as a result your plane will fly faster. For your first plane I recommend a motor kv between 850kv and 1500kv.

The next factor to considering a motor is size. Many beginners will end up significantly over-powering their planes and doing so adds momentum in crashes. Lighter, slower planes do not break as often as fast, heavy planes. My first motor was a 56 gram Turnigy 2200kv motor and every plane I built with it was a rocket and crashed like rockets crash. Hard. For trainers with under 36 inch wingspans a 24 gram motor will provide plenty of thrust for someone new to the hobby. I recommend the Turnigy 1300kv 24 gram motor which provides great thrust and high efficiency for it’s light weight. It is also fairly inexpensive, costing around 10$ from Hobbyking. This motor is not a good motor for larger planes however and there are many options for planes with 36-60 inch wingspans. Generally for these planes a motor between 30 and 70 grams will have more than enough thrust. The Turnigy Aerodrive series is a good place to start but they are fairly expensive. If you are looking for a cheaper option look for similarly sized Turnigy motors that are not Aerodrive branded. Finding the right motor always requires a lot of research so be sure to read reviews, comments, and questions before purchasing a motor. Avoid electric ducted fans (EDF) for now; once you are more experienced they can be used to make fast aerobatic jets.

Step 2: Choosing an ESC

After selecting a motor the next logical step is to select a brushless electronic speed controller (ESC) that matches your motor. The motor will have an Amp (A) rating in the description section on Hobbyking. It is good general practice to select an ESC rated for 30 percent or 10A more than the max current draw of your motor. For the 24 gram Turnigy 1300kv motor a 10A ESC will work fine and will be very light. If you are uncomfortable with not having a large buffer I recommend an 18A ESC.

The 10A ESC I use is the Turnigy Plush 10A ESC, which is around 10$ from Hobbyking. If you want an 18A Esc I recommend the Turnigy Plush 18A ESC. For larger motors I recommend between 25A and 40A ESC’s depending of the current draw of your motor.

Step 3: Li-Po Batteries and Chargers

The next part of your plane is your battery. Modern rc planes use lipo batteries, which have a good power to weight ratio and can discharge a large amount of current very quickly. The motor that the I recommend uses a low amount of current and I recommend fairly small batteries. Another fault in my first order of parts from Hobbyking was battery size and cell count. Large batteries weigh a lot and decrease not only your thrust to weight ratio and also increase the minimum speed of your plane. Also important to your choice of battery is the number of cells (S). Each lipo battery cell is around 3.7 volts. Remember that kv is the number of rotations per volt, which means that the more cells your battery has the faster your motor will spin. There are however limits as to the number of cells on both you motor and ESC. This information will be listed clearly in the descriptions of your motor and ESC.

If you are using the recommended electronics I recommend a 3S (11.1volt) lipo battery between 500mah and 1000mah. It is better to have a light plane with less battery life than a overloaded plane with better battery life. I cannot say it enough, WHEN you crash it is much better to have a light plane than a heavy one. A 3S 500mah Turnigy battery from Hobbyking will be just over 5 dollars so you should buy spares. For a larger plane with a larger motor a battery with between 1000mah and 2200mah should be good. 2S batteries will still have plenty of power for most planes and are lighter, cheaper, and smaller for the same mah battery, so if you want to use them it is fine, just be aware that you will have 1/3 less power than you would with a 3S lipo battery. Whatever battery you buy, read reviews and buy at least two to extend your flying time.

While on the topic of batteries it is important to purchase a charger. If you are on a budget a simple 2-3S lipo balance charger from Hobbyking should be fine, but if you know that this is the right hobby for you pick up a Turnigy Accucell 6, which will let you charge batteries faster and more accurately. It will also let you charge 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 cell batteries instead of just 2 and 3 cell batteries. The first option will cost 10-15 dollars. My Turnigy Accucell 6 cost me 30 dollars. The Turnigy Accucell 6 can charge 12 times faster however, so it is a good thing to get if you have spare cash.

Step 4: Transmitters and Receivers

The central component of any rc system is the remote control. Almost all modern remote control elements are 2.4Ghz. It is a frequency with good range and a nearly infinite number of people can use the frequency at any given time. I recommend a simple Hobby King 2.4Ghz 4ch Tx & Rx V2 as it is cheap and has good range. For your first few planes 4 channels will be plenty anyways. If you plan to be in the rc hobby for a long time I would recommend an OrangeRx computer radio. It will give you many more options and more channels. The Hobbyking radio is only 25$ and the OrangeRx is 60$. If you live in North America you should get a mode 2 radio which means that the throttle is on the left. A mode 1 radio has the throttle on the right side. A radio is the fundamental part of your rc plane and it is important to get a reliable one because if it fails you lose control of your plane.

Step 5: Servo Motors

To control the elevator, rudder, and ailerons you will need small motors, called servos. These servos can be precision control and have variable movement. You need one servo for every control surface. These servos will move control rods which are connected to the control horns on your control surfaces. I recommend the HXT900 servos from Hobbyking. They last a long time and are high quality for only 3$ apiece. If you are feeling rich you can purchase metal-geared HXT900’s which are more durable. Whichever you pick I recommend purchasing 4-6 servos depending on whether or not you wish to add ailerons. Having 2 spare servos will save you the time it takes to ship new servos in case you ever have a catastrophic crash. Usually a servo will break once every 10 crashes or so. To be honest you cannot have too many servos so feel free to purchase to yours hearts content.

Step 6: Additional Materials

Additional materials other than electronics vary greatly for the rc hobby. In general however there are several elements that stand out. You need a propeller that matches you motor, recommended propellers can be found in the motors description. Buy lots of pare propellers because they are cheap and they will break fairly often, In addition you will want 18 gauge steel wire to make pushrods rof your servos. You can buy control horns or make them out of Popsicle sticks. Connectors for the batteries you buy are a must, I recommend XT-60 connectors or you can simply buy crimp on connectors from Amazon or RadioShack. You will need connectors for the brushless motor to brushless ESC connection as well. If you want ailerons on your planes you should buy a servo y splitter cable and it is always a good idea to buy servo extensions. Aside from those specific parts you will want Popsicle sticks, barbecue skewers, drinking straws, Adams foam board, heat-shrink, a hot glue gun, hot glue, and lots of packing tape. A sharp utility knife and or hobby knife will do a good job cutting Adams foam board. Adams foam board is 3/16″ thick foam with a layer of paper on either side. It is widely regarded as the best material for building rc planes. It can be purchased online of at Dollar Tree, and so I am told Dollar General now. In total rc is a hobby that will cost around 100 dollars to get a good foothold in, and trust me, if you stick with it it will be worth every penny.

Step 7: Connecting the Electronics: Motor and ESC

The first thing you connect is your motor and speed controller. Three wires are attached to your brushless motor, attach a male quick connect crimp-on connector to each one. The ESC also has three wires and attach a corresponding female connector to each wire. If you have crimp-on connectors use your wire strippers to attach a connector to each wire. You may also want to heat-shrink your wires too add strength and ensure that there will be no short circuits. Next, connect each motor wire to an ESC wire, it does not matter which wire is connected to each. If you want to create a permanent connection you can twist the three wires together and test the direction. Later you can solder and heat-shrink the wires.

Step 8: Connecting the Electronics: ESC and Li-Po Battery

You should now attach a corresponding battery connector to the red and black wires coming out of the other side of your ESC. Before soldering test connect the connectors and make sure you solder the wires so that the red wire lines up to the red wire and the black wire lines up to the black wire. Before you solder, also put the heat-shrink on the ESC power wires, after you solder you will not be able to. After you solder on the connector heat-shrink the connection.

Step 9: Connecting the Electronics: ESC and Reciever

You now are ready to bind your receiver to your transmitter. Put the bind plug in the bind port and plug the ESC wire into port one on the receiver with the black wire up. Plug in your battery to the ESC. Power on your transmitter while holding down the bind button. The receiver led should stop blinking. Unplug the battery and turn off the transmitter. To test the connection power on the transmitter then plug in the battery. After the motor beeps a few times you should have throttle control. Always power up you transmitter before plugging in your battery and turn it off after unplugging the battery unless you are binding the transmitter to the receiver. This ensures that your rc plane will never fly away without your control. If you are having trouble there are many YouTube videos demonstrating the process.

After connecting the ESC to the receiver attach a piece of tape to the motor shaft and ensure that when the motor is running it spins counter clockwise. If it is spinning in the wrong direction you can simply reverse two of the motor/ESC wires. NEVER swap the ESC power leads!!! Once the motor is spinning counter clockwise you can remove the tape and move on to the next step. This would be the time to solder the connections between the ESC and motor if you are creating a permanent connection.

Step 10: Connecting the Electronics: Servos and Final Testing

You are now ready to connect the servos to your receiver. With the black/brown wire up connect a servo to channel 2 and one to channel 3. To test these servos power on your transmitter, then plug in the battery and move the control sticks. The servos should move.

You now have a functional set of electronics for a simple plane with throttle, elevator, and rudder. With the included hardware attach the half servo horns and tighten on a screw. You are ready to add a propeller and add these to a plane. In the next section I will discuss various planes that are popular and have good instructions.

Step 11: Good Scratchbuilt RC Planes

Now that your electronics are working I have several recommendations for first planes. Be warned, building these planes will take time to do a good job. The build times will range from 1-10 hours for high quality builds. That said if I had to recommend one place to start with I would recommend FLITE TEST. They have high quality plans and the finished products fly great.

The Nutball: A fun and outrageously simple plane. It takes very little time to repair or rebuild and is easy to fly. Not one of my personal favorites but so simple and effective it has to make the list. It also has detailed build videos on YouTube. It can be found in detail at BUILD DIFFICULTY: 1 FLIGHT DIFFICULTY: 2

The FT Flyer: Designed by FLITE TEST this plane is very stable and can fly very slowly. About as easy as it gets to fly. It is a great plane to learn on and it is capable of basic aerobatics. It is probably my favorite simple plane. Also easy to repair but it is so sturdy that unless it is a very bad crash it probably won’t break. Once again has the plane and more details. BUILD DIFFICULTY: 2 FLIGHT DIFFICULTY: 1

The FT Simple Storch: A great traditional trainer with a true airfoil this plane is the first I list with ailerons. It will be slightly harder to fly but looks nicer and it more capable of acrobatics. A stable flyer I would recommend a 1000mah 3S lipo. It is probably the most durable plane I have recommended yet. Plans and details can be found on BUILD DIFFICULTY: 5 FLIGHT DIFFICULTY: 4

FT Delta: This plane has elevon control and is a fast and responsive acrobat. Probably the hardest plane to fly I have recommended yet. When you are ready however this plane will be a lot of fun and can really wow with tricks. Plans and details can be found on BUILD DIFFICULTY: 3 FLIGHT DIFFICULTY: 5

Step 12: Closing Remarks
I am not liable for any damage you cause to property, people or anything else. Don’t be stupid. Be safe.

Step 13: Have Fun!!!